Highs and lows

When I last wrote we were into some pretty rough sailing in the North
Atlantic. That continued as we entered iceberg territory. The Race Director
had given the fleet some coordinates which represented the southern edge of
the area where icebergs were located with instructions not to go north of
these coordinates. However, we still had to remain vigilant and for a
couple of days we always had a person on iceberg spotting duty. This was no
easy task, particularly at night and when we were also looking for
'growlers' which are small but significant chunks of ice (car size)
floating just below the surface.

We emerged from this area unscathed and continued on our planned route and
in third place.

Our next change in route was was then to decide how to get through or
around a high pressure system with little wind in order to pick up
beneficial wind from a low system which had developed in Spain and had
moved into the Atlantic. The weather forecast showed that we could get
around the high by travelling east and then heading north once we hit the
low. Our strategy started well but then we had our 24 hour horribilis. The
wind just just started to disappear and we found ourselves in a windhole.
For that 24 hour period, we only mad 6 miles in the direction we wanted to
go. We dropped from third to twelth and the mood of the crew hit an all
time low. Our skipper held a meeting with us to decide on a course of
action. We could continue to go east and try to get out into the low as
planned or turn around and try to find some more wind in the west. The vote
was to try to get to the east.

My watch went of to bed , subdued and wondering what the next watch would
bring. We got up, still anxious and went on deck to find some wind which
was encouraging, but that we had turned around. A further weather report
had come through showing that the high pressure area was travelling faster
than us and we would never get through it.

So, we felt a little better, but still disappointed and low that we were in
last place. Then suddenly a shout went up to look backwards. There were
about 40 pilot whales and several dolphins coming to join us on our stern.
What a sight and we understand that normally pilot whales are timid and
keep their distance. They are not very big but to see so many was lovely.

Then we spotted a sperm whale and calf about half a mile from our port
side. Beautiful. However, this was a potential problem in that whales pose
us a significant risk and I was then asked to go on whale watch at the very
front of the boat. I made 10 different sitings, some just the water spouts
from the blow holes and some of the whales' backs just on the surface. This
was a significant group on the move. After an hour or so, I was stood down,
 but what a magical time for the crew. This and some wind certainly put us
back on a high.

We found more wind and are now on a course direct for Ireland. The
schedules from Race HQ show that we have been the fastest boat in two
particular time frames and we have overtaken three boats. We still have a
long way to go to overhaul some of the others, but our mood is much better
and we are very much focussed on our performance.

Perhaps the only drawback is that we are still approximately 850 miles from
Derry and will be at least a day late in arriving and being reunited with
friends and family. I cannot wait to see Cathy and Rachel who will be
coming over.


Best wishes to you all from the Atlantic.  Malcolm





NOTE: For those reading this via email update, don't forget to visit the blog at https://malclipper.blogspot.com where you can pledge support via donations to Malcolm's chosen charities - the Bobby Moore Fund tackling bowel cancer; the James Whale Fund for kidney cancer; and Prostate Cancer UK.

Getting stuck in!

A game of two halves

We have been debating on the boat as to whether the World Cup has started. We think it was last night and hence I am using a well-worn football term to describe our journey so far.

We discussed the weather and tidal options before this race and quite frankly, the final diagram was an absolute maze. Leaving New York saw us sailing upwind with a variety of kites (spinnakers) and we wondered what the fuss was about talking about the cold, high winds and big seas. Shorts and T-shirts were the order of the day. We continued in the warmth when our strategy of getting to the Gulf Stream worked and we were carried by a 4 to 5 knot current of water at 25 degrees. This went on for longer than we thought and our place in the field reflected that, second. People were happy and there was much talk about how great the reception is at Derry and what a party they put on. Then the whistle went for half time and we entered the 'second half'.

The Gulf Stream diminished and we hit the cold Labrador Stream coming down from the north. The winds shifted and we are now heading into the wind with all the bouncing and crashing and were also heeled over and the temperature has dropped. We now have a sea temperature in single figures and are posting lookout watches for icebergs as we have had notification that although we are at a latitude just south of the icebergs, we may still encounter one.

The lumpy seas have brought out the seasickness in many of the crew with a small number not even able to get on deck. We are picking up the wind in the low pressure systems and must ride these as long as we can.

We now get less sleep because we have to be up earlier than usual to enable us to put on more clothes and all of our foul weather gear. Moving around the boat is harder and cooking at between 30 and 45 degrees is a real test. However, I pride myself in making a cake two days ago when I did my 'mother' duty for the day. I think that was the last time we had a full complement of crew eating.

So these are the hard times and everything is energy sapping, particularly with waves breaking over the bow and over us. But amongst these difficult times, we do get moments of joy. Yesterday morning I was just about to go below to get another sail up on deck when the cry of “dolphins” went up. Swimming towards us were a large number of them, some leaping out of the water. Then one jumped clear out of the water, just 5 foot from the boat and 10 feet away from me. What an incredible and beautiful sight, one which will stay with me for a long time.

Best wishes from the north Atlantic.

Malcolm

NOTE: For those reading this via email update, don't forget to visit the blog at https://malclipper.blogspot.com where you can pledge support via donations to Malcolm's chosen charities - the Bobby Moore Fund tackling bowel cancer; the James Whale Fund for kidney cancer; and Prostate Cancer UK.

Telling the Flying Fish story as we leave New York

New York and fat feet

We have been in New York for five days now and much has happened.

The race from Jamaica was very intense with many and varied conditions, we had downwind sailing, upwind, light airs, the Gulf Stream and two snapped sheets (one inch thick ropes!).

After our success with 3rd place in the Jamaica race, we decided to be very focused and do our utmost to perform well in the NY race. Well it was intense and we did get into second place at one time. Weather was critical with winds ranging from virtually nil up to 30 knots and always changing direction; it was a real test of our seamanship. It was also exhausting at times. On one six hour watch, I think we changed sails six times and had to wool 2 spinnakers. At the end of that I went off deck and sat with head in hands for about half an hour before getting into my bunk for two and a half hour's sleep. Am I getting soft or old?

However, our skipper handed me two opportunities towards the end of the race. The first was to be at the helm over the last half an hour of the race and to cross the finishing line. The second was rather more challenging. With just 24 hours notice, she asked that I passage plan the route into New York. This means you prepare the navigation plan to arrive safely at your destination. Having given the task, she then added that NY is the busiest port on the whole east coast of the US and we would arrive at night. No pressure then with various things to avoid such as exclusion zones, unexploded devices, security zones where we could be shot at and heavy traffic including cruise liners. Well we arrived at 5am and I must say a can of beer for breakfast tasted pretty good.

There has been a lot of cleaning, maintenance, food shopping and more to do. However, I did have a full day to see NY. I became quite emotional when I visited Ground Zero. The new tower block they have built in the corner is impressive, but it is the two large water features depicting the base of each tower with the names of all those that were lost that really stirred my emotions. Having watched the events on TV as they happened and now having visited the site, I cannot understand how man can be so callous and wicked to fellow man.

Then onto Grand Central Station, a fabulous building and a location for a number of films. Will Birmingham's new New Street Station come anywhere near?

My daughter had recommended the Rockefeller Centre over the Empire State Building – and it was both educational and offered breathtaking views from the viewing galleries on the 68th and 70th floors. A brief walk in Central Park and through the financial area including Wall Street concluded my site seeing.

So where do fat feet come in? Well, the heat of the leg down to the Tropics had caused my feet and ankles to swell considerably. A major additional factor is that you do not walk anywhere on board. Consequently, nothing gets pushed back up. To cut a long story short, a 3 hour medical examination, x-rays and ultrasound proved all was OK and diuretics have been prescribed. So passed fit for the Atlantic. Derry here we come.

We set off on Saturday morning and will sail for about 14 days depending on winds. Homeward bound and rather keen to see my family.

Oh and just to finish, does NY have the biggest dog population on earth? I have never seen so many blokes walking dogs of all sizes and breeds as I have here.

Best wishes to you all.

Malcolm

The crew of Switzerland arrives in New York

NOTE: For those reading this via email update, don't forget to visit the blog at https://malclipper.blogspot.com where you can pledge support via donations to Malcolm's chosen charities - the Bobby Moore Fund tackling bowel cancer; the James Whale Fund for kidney cancer; and Prostate Cancer UK.